{"id":8553,"date":"2024-03-18T08:00:00","date_gmt":"2024-03-18T07:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/autoschrauber.de\/know-how\/thread-the-screw\/"},"modified":"2025-01-05T17:56:54","modified_gmt":"2025-01-05T16:56:54","slug":"thread-the-screw","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/autoschrauber.de\/en\/know-how-en\/tips-and-tricks\/thread-the-screw\/","title":{"rendered":"Thread the screw"},"content":{"rendered":"
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To be honest, “threading from the rear” doesn’t happen very often. Perhaps about as often as you would need a hydraulic nut splitter in real life. Or an internal ball bearing extractor. Or the oxy-fuel welder. In short: nasty screws in doors or cavities are usually positioned so that you can reach them from the front. But if not, such constructions cause gray hairs to sprout in clumps. How do you thread the damn thing? <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The remedy in this case is half a meter of binding wire from my mother’s casket. Such a soft wire can be threaded – stiffly enough – through ugly cavities, but is still sufficiently flexible for the fixing bend: For a load-bearing M10 thread, all you need as a template is an M8 screw. Wrapped with this, the M10 screw can then be threaded through the goose breast from behind without complaint. <\/p>\n\n<\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n

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\"Schraube\n
Well threaded: The screw for pre-twisting the wire must be one size smaller.<\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n<\/div><\/div><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div><\/div>
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@devid7438<\/a>

\u043b\u0430\u0439\u0444\u0445\u0430\u043a <\/p> \u266c orijinal ses – \ud83d\udd25 \ud835\uddd6 \ud835\udddf \ud835\uddd8 \ud835\uddd4 \ud835\udde1 \ud83c\udfce\ufe0f<\/a> <\/section> <\/blockquote>