{"id":8278,"date":"2022-11-05T14:35:29","date_gmt":"2022-11-05T13:35:29","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/autoschrauber.de\/know-how\/grinding-in-valves\/"},"modified":"2024-08-14T14:49:47","modified_gmt":"2024-08-14T12:49:47","slug":"grinding-in-valves","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/autoschrauber.de\/en\/know-how-en\/motor-mechanics\/cylinder-head\/grinding-in-valves\/","title":{"rendered":"Grinding in valves"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Valve stem seals broken?<\/h2>\n\n\n
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All valves run in valve guides that are shrunk into the cylinder head. To prevent expensive engine oil from constantly running out of the head into the combustion chamber, the valve stems are fitted with sealing rings at the top, or more precisely, shaft seals. When these inconspicuous penny parts are worn, lubricating juice runs (logically) through the shaft into the combustion chamber and produces a funny blue exhaust plume. Typically when downshifting \/ easing off the throttle.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

So if your buddies always want to keep a mile apart on the MC Firefucker group ride or always want to ride in front, it’s worth replacing the valve stem seals.<\/p>\n\n<\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n

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Old and new. Valve stem seals are penny parts. If you have once removed the head, a change is definitely worthwhile.<\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n<\/div><\/div><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n
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Test the valve guide<\/h2>\n\n\n
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But if the colleagues at the MC get asthma under the half-shell again just a few hundred kilometers after replacing the valve stem seals, this could also be due to faulty valve guides. These guideways are mostly shrink-fit, cylindrical non-ferrous or sintered metal guideways that can withstand at least half a billion cycles. Or at least should be able to.
If these valve guides are damaged, the valve, which is almost completely inserted, can be moved back and forth radially. For a test, clean the valve, rub the stem and guide dry and feel the play with your fingertips. Very slight wobbling is permitted, significant loosening means: guide is worn.
Logically, in this case even brand-new valve stem seals cannot stop the lubricating juice for long and the exhaust plume of the GPZ looks more like two-stroke-rocket with 1:25 in the tank even after the change.<\/p>\n\n<\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n

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Not quite correctly shown here: Insert the valve almost completely and then wiggle it. The valve stem and the guide must be dry.<\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n<\/div><\/div><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n
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Sucker wood<\/h2>\n\n\n
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The valve must be turned when grinding in. This can be done by gripping the plate at the front or by gripping the valve stem where the springs were previously located. We use the patented suction cup – this allows you to elegantly grip and turn the valve disk. It also works without or with a converted hand mixer, or, or, or.
However, you have a lot of feeling with this part, even if it takes a little longer. Since quality is more important than time in this step, it is worth investing in such a miracle device.<\/p>\n\n<\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n

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The tiny plunger. You can do without it – but with this thing you have more feeling.<\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n<\/div><\/div><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n
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Grinding paste<\/h2>\n\n\n
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Valve grinding paste consists of corundum in plasticine. This bond is mineral and, if the paste hardens after a few decades in the tool cupboard, it can be diluted again with a splash of petroleum or thin oil in the direction of “caramelized honey”. Originally, this stuff was mainly used to grind in fittings in steam or hot water systems. Here, machine fitters lovingly took care of leaking valves or gate valves, so that this compound was available in at least 5 different grains.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Today, grit 00 (very fine), for example, is difficult to find; most specialist retailers only offer “coarse” and “fine”. However, this is sufficient for our purposes.
It’s easy to guess that the rough preparatory work is done with “coarse”, while the fine compound is used for the finishing touches and primarily to achieve a good surface.<\/p>\n\n<\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n

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Sanding paste or compound. Older can, probably left over from the construction of the german “Westwall”. Can be diluted again to a reasonable viscosity with a little petroleum.<\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n<\/div><\/div><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n
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Grinding in the valve<\/h2>\n\n\n
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To grind in, apply a thin layer of grinding paste to either the sealing surface of the valve or the valve seat. Now insert the selected new valve into the seat. Perhaps oil the shaft a little so that it slides better.
If you now turn the valve back and forth, you can clearly feel the crunching of the individual abrasive grains. Lift off the valve every few turns and turn a little further “in the air” so that you do not always grind in the same place.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

When there is no more grinding, lift off the valve and press the grinding paste back into the grinding gap.<\/p>\n\n<\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n

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Oiling and anointing also helps here – a dab is enough.<\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n<\/div><\/div><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n
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Whether you apply the grinding compound to the valve or the…<\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n<\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n
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valve seat is distributed is mumpe.<\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n<\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n
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If the oil-bound Sahara is between the surfaces, the wood chop is used. Lift off from time to time and continue offset by a quarter turn. When nothing crunches anymore, press the mass back into the gap.<\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n<\/div><\/div><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n
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@motortips_<\/a>

Ig: motortips_ #trend<\/a> <\/p> \u266c Where Have You Been x The Hills – DJ L BEATS<\/a> <\/section> <\/blockquote>