Clean carburetor jet

Even just a few picograms of dirt and grit in a full-load nozzle can cause two or three horses on a GPZ, GS, SR, XS, XT, ZXR, CBR, CBS or ZDF to lie lazily in the stable with the throttle fully open.
The annoyed TV viewer naturally synchronizes the carburettor first, but then has to open everything up and remove and clean the jets.

lsIdeally, he throws these precision parts into an ultrasonic bath. The second best solution is merciless compressed air. And if that is not available either, the poking bell tolls.
Poking around in the nozzle bores is seductively simple and leads to success with appropriately coarse tools (steel wire, small drill bit, tiny screws): the bore is sparkling clean.

However, it is also a little larger than it should be. This is because carburetor nozzles (and also nozzles in injection systems) are typically made of a brass alloy and are finely drilled in the nozzle factory.
Their holes are then sometimes accurate to a few thousandths of a millimeter in order to precisely portion the fuel flow. Remember: petrol has a much lower viscosity than water and is correspondingly difficult to meter. So if the carburetor of the lazy Kimchi RTL 400 needs to be dismantled and cleaned in the awning at the otherwise enchanting campsite on Lago di Ledro, only poking instruments that are softer than the brass alloy of the nozzle are suitable.

A stranded copper wire works very well – in the worst case it can even be removed from the machine itself and, although not brutal, it cleans the carburetor cleanly and leaves the carburetor setting intact.